I went to the theatre today, but not just any old theatre – the Shochikuza theatre in Nanba, Osaka, and a whole load of exchange students went along to enjoy some real Japanese kabuki – the big February production. An activity both very famous and very traditional.
This is Shochikuza Theatre:
And this is the stage (before the play started, as we weren’t allowed to take pictures during the play).
I didn’t understand much of the play as it was using archaic language of course, but I tried to read the body language for when I didn’t understand the words. There were a load of feudal lords and courtesans, or so they looked.
I gather there was a man who was betrayed, and then he and the woman he loved rand off into the woods and decided to kill themselves rather than not be together. That was Act One. Act Two consisted of the music-and-dance routine that I think Kabuki is most famous for, which was very entertaining.
At some point two people dressed in long wigs came on and danced, but all I could think of was of Willow Smith’s song “I Whip My Hair Back and Forth”. As that indeed was what they were doing.
Then Act Three was a combination of plot and a man dressed in a dog costume looking as though he was possessed by the devil before being lifted up by a cable and disappearing into an explosion of sakura leaves. I may have misunderstood, but somehow I gathered it was supposed to symbolize him becoming a man. Either way, it was simultaneously hilarious and terrifying.
I was in the theatre for four and a half hours, and I didn’t move in all that time, because the rows of seats are packed so tightly together, and I was in the middle, so I didn’t want to climb over everyone. When I eventually stood up my legs ached so badly from having not been able to stretch them. There wasn’t enough room to stretch them sitting down, so I had them practically drawn up to my knees for four hours. Ouch.
Then I leapt on the subway and went home. End of story.
Well, it was a very interesting experience. I wish I could say more about it, but I didn’t really know what was going on half the time. Nevertheless, I enjoy theatre. I should look into seeing a play when I get back. The Book of Mormon was a whole load of fun. As was Phantom of the Opera. Both of which I got to see in London, though it was expensive as fuck. Mind you, The Book of Mormon was only as expensive as it was because I paid for a really good seat four rows from the front.
I’ve never seen Wicked or The Lion King, or even Les Mis, so maybe that’d be a laugh. Jersey Boys came to the city where my university was, but I didn’t go see it in the end. I think it was in the middle of my exams. Maybe The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night Time? I’m sure there’s a plethora of choices. I feel like seeing some good old-fashioned Shakespeare. Maybe there’s something on in the Royal Exchange Theatre in Manchester. Or I could go to the Globe Theatre whilst visiting London.
Well I’m glad this kabuki experience was a free field trip, otherwise I might not have organized it myself, not knowing how to proceed. So yeah. A good traditional experience to tick off my list.
Speaking of Japanese experiences, I could really do with going to an onsen soon. I hear there’s a good cheap one near Kita-Senri.
naiveinnippon 